How to Paint a Chest of Drawers: A Comprehensive DIY Guide

The paint you choose determines whether your project becomes a family heirloom or a cautionary tale. Trust me, I learned this the hard way when I used wall paint on my grandmother's antique dresser (she still hasn't quite forgiven me).

For wooden chests of drawers, chalk paint remains incredibly popular, and for good reason. It adheres beautifully to most surfaces without primer, though the finish does require sealing. Annie Sloan's range costs more, but the coverage and color depth justify the price. I've found that one liter typically covers a standard four-drawer chest with two coats.

Milk paint creates that gorgeous, authentic vintage look that designers adore. It's particularly brilliant if you're after that Swedish farmhouse aesthetic. The powder form might seem fiddly at first, but mixing small batches means zero waste. Plus, the slight variation in color adds character that factory-perfect paint simply can't replicate.

For durability, nothing beats quality furniture paint like Benjamin Moore's Advance line. Yes, it requires more preparation work, but the self-leveling formula eliminates brush marks beautifully. I painted my daughter's nursery dresser with this five years ago, and despite countless diaper changes and toy collisions, it still looks pristine.

According to the EPA's guide on lead-safe work practices, any chest of drawers manufactured before 1978 should be tested for lead paint before beginning your project. This isn't just bureaucratic red tape; it's genuinely important for your family's safety.

Paint Selection Criteria

When applying paint ensure you are painting on high quality solid wood. For solid wood chests of drawers make sure to check out our full Solid Wood Chest Of Drawers Collection.

Preparation determines 80% of your final result. I know it's tempting to skip straight to the fun part (believe me, I've been there), but proper prep work separates amateur hour from professional-quality finishes.

Start by removing all hardware and drawers. Label everything with masking tape; you'd be surprised how similar drawer runners can look until you're trying to reassemble everything at midnight! Clean every surface thoroughly with sugar soap or a degreasing cleaner. That mystery sticky patch from 1987? It needs to go.

Fill any holes or dents with wood filler, slightly overfilling since it shrinks as it dries. Sand smooth once dry, working through the grits from coarse to fine. I keep a dedicated "furniture painting" vacuum cleaner in my workshop now, because the dust gets absolutely everywhere otherwise.

The CDC's healthy homes manual recommends proper ventilation during any furniture refinishing project. Open those windows, use fans, and consider wearing a dust mask during sanding. Your lungs will thank you.

Think of primer as the relationship counselor between your furniture and paint. It helps them bond properly and work through their differences!

For most projects, I reach for Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or BIN primer. The BIN version blocks stains and tannins brilliantly (essential for mahogany or cherry wood), while 1-2-3 provides excellent adhesion on glossy surfaces. Apply thin, even coats rather than one thick layer.

Primer Selection for Different Wood Types

The data clearly shows that primer selection and proper drying time directly impact your final finish quality. Rushing this stage almost guarantees problems later.

Tinted primer saves time and paint. Ask your paint supplier to tint the primer to roughly 75% of your topcoat color. This trick means better coverage with fewer topcoats, especially when painting dark furniture a lighter shade.

If you are looking for chests of drawers to update your bedroom make sure to check out our full Rustic Chest Of Drawers Collections.

Now for the main event! Painting a chest of drawers properly involves technique, patience, and the right conditions. The ideal temperature sits between 50-85°F with humidity below 50%. I learned this after painting in my garage during a heatwave; the paint dried so fast it left visible brush marks everywhere.

The actual painting process follows a specific order that prevents drips and ensures even coverage. Start with the inside edges and work outward, painting the drawer fronts last. Use long, smooth strokes following the wood grain, even when painting over previous paint layers. This technique minimizes brush marks and creates that professional finish everyone wants. For chalk paint, work in sections and blend quickly, as it dries faster than traditional paint. With furniture paint, maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks, working systematically across each surface. Load your brush properly (dip only one-third of the bristles), and remove excess on the container's edge rather than scraping, which creates bubbles.

Here's my proven painting sequence:

1. Remove all drawers and hardware completely
2. Clean surfaces with degreasing solution
3. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper
4. Wipe down with tack cloth
5. Apply primer in thin, even coats
6. Sand lightly between primer coats
7. Paint frame first, drawers separately
8. Apply first topcoat using quality brush
9. Sand lightly with 320-grit between coats
10. Apply second coat (and third if needed)
11. Seal with appropriate topcoat
12. Reattach hardware once fully cured

The difference between amateur and professional results often comes down to patience between coats.

I cannot stress enough the importance of proper drying time. That "dry to touch" time on the paint can? Ignore it. Wait at least double that before applying another coat. Better yet, leave it overnight. Patience here prevents weeks of frustration later when your "finished" piece starts peeling.